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Bagasse (Sugarcane) fibre

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Bagasse (Sugarcane) fibre

Botanical Information

Generic name of sugarcane is Saccharum officinarum and is a member of the Poaceae family .
It is an herbaceous plant within the grass family.
It is a perennial monocot.
It grows mainly in tropical and sub-tropical zones.

Agricultural conditions

Sugarcane cultivation can thrive in various soil types, encompassing sandy soils, clay loams, and heavy clays.
However, the optimal conditions for sugarcane growth are found in well-drained, deep, loamy soils with a pH of pH5 to pH8.5.
Annually, 75-100cm of rainfall is necessary for sugarcane to thrive.
The optimal conditions for sugarcane cultivation include an extended, warm growing period characterized by abundant sunlight, a temperature of 21°C to 27°C and sufficient soil moisture.
The total sugar crop area worldwide is around 31.3 million hectares, with sugar cane comprising about 70%.
In 2016, the leading sugar-producing nations were Brazil, India, and China, contributing 20.57%, 16.91%, and 6.31% to the global production, respectively.
In the recent period, China’s sugar cane cultivation spanned around 1.23 million hectares, with a corresponding production of about 100 million tons in the 2017- 18 period.

Bagasse

Bagasse is the fibrous remainder of cane stalk that remains after the sugar cane has been crushed and its juice extracted .
Mountains of bagasse make up the heaps, and a single mill can generate up to 3500 tons per day.
Bagasse consists of a combination of long and fine fibres found in the outer rind of the stalk, while the inner part, referred to as the pith, contains short fibres .
Each year in Egypt, the annual production of crop residues exceeds 33 million tons, with sugarcane bagasse accounting for 3 million tons of this waste.
Derived from sugarcane, it is a versatile by-product that can serve as a renewable source for manufacturing or reconstructing products with recyclable foundations.

Table1.Physical & mechanical properties and chemical composition of bagasse fibres

Physical & Mechanical properties of bagasse

Length

200- 250mm

Fineness

6.5-14 tex

Tensile strength

4.1 cN/tex

Breaking elongation

1.80±1.12%

Chemical composition

Cellulose

45%

Hemicellulose

33%

Lignin

20%

Typical uses

In a sugar cane factory, bagasse is typically incinerated as a source of fuel to generate steam and sustainable electricity.
As sugarcane is a cellulose-based plant, the bagasse is used as a resource for paper production.
Additionally, it serves as cattle feed due to its protein enrichment.
It can also be utilized in the manufacturing of industrially significant enzymes such as cellulase, xylanase, amylase, etc. and biofuel.
If sugarcane bagasse is pretreated in a mild acid solution under moderately rigorous conditions, the process releases sugars and various hydrolysates, such as volatile organic acids, furfurals, and acid-soluble lignin. These hydrolysates can be utilized by the aerobic bacterium Ralstonia eutropha to biosynthesize valuable bioplastics known as polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHAs) .
Bagasse can be used as reinforcement materials to create composites which can be used for construction, automobiles, etc.

Yak Hair fibre

Zoological information

The yak, scientifically referred to as Bos grunniens, is related to the bison and falls within the Bovidae family.
The primary use of this animal is done in the mountain regions where it is also known as ‘Beast of Burden’ for its meat and milk. In a recent development, herders have begun selling the yak’s sheared hair as an additional source of income.
The lifespan of yaks typically ranges from 20 to 25 years in captivity, while those in the wild may have a slightly shorter lifespan due to various environmental factors and natural challenges.
Yak hair is known to be an acceptable alternative to Cashmere.

Habitat and fibre production

This cloven-hoofed creature primarily inhabits the elevated regions above the snow line on the Qinghai-Tibetan plateau, often referred to as “The Roof of the World.”
Towards the conclusion of the preceding century, it was discovered that approximately 13 million domesticated yaks resided in proximity to the Himalayas, with 100,000 of them located in India.
About 4 million wild yaks were estimated to be found in the deep valleys and remote mountainous areas. Those domesticated yaks dwelling in the Himalayas typically occupied altitudes exceeding 2000m.
The yak possesses a dual-layered coat, consisting of an outer coarse layer that shields it from intense wind, snow, and rain, while the inner finer layer provides warmth and insulation to the animal.
The yearly production of yak hair fibers amounts to approximately 1000 tons, and a single yak can yield 1-1.2 kg of fibers.
It annually undergoes shedding during the spring season, a process that can be either manually combed or sheared.
Specifically selected Jiulong yak fibre lines can yield an impressive 10-12 kg of fine fibers per animal.

Table 1. Physical and Mechanical properties and chemical composition of yak hair fibres[1][2]

Physical properties

Parameter

Value

Adult yak : Length (mm)

12000-14000mm

Diameter( µm )

18-20

Yak Calf : Length (mm)

40-50

Diameter( µm )

15-17

Composition

Constituents

Value (in %)

Fibre yield

65 – 80

Foreign matter

1 – 6

Vegetable matter

Moisture

Table 2: Amino Acid composition of Mongolian Yak hair fibres

Amino Acid

Composition (mol%)

Cysteic acid

0.4

Aspartic Acid

6.6

Threonine

6.5

Glutamic Acid

10.3

Proline

12.5

Glycine

8.4

Alanine

5.7

Cystine

4.8

Valine

6.0

Methionine

0.4

Isoleucine

3.2

Leucine

7.7

Tyrosine

3.5

Phenylalanine

2.8

Lysine

2.8

Histidine

0.6

Arginine

7.4

Features

Yak hair comes in intriguing natural shades such as red, white, black, and blackish brown.
The coarse outer hair has a narrow medulla, while the inner fine hair lacks a medulla.
The outer guard hair is longer, coarser, and stronger, while the inner hair is silky, soft, fine, and lustrous.
The fibres are oval to circular
They possess a finely scaled structure and exhibit deep pigmentation.
The fine quality yak hair is much cheaper than cashmere.

Typical uses

The coarser hairs find application in crafting blankets, ropes, tents, huts, and mats.
Robust ropes are crafted from the tail hair, while the finer down hair is primarily employed in the creation of apparel and various textile products.
The de-haired fine down hair can be spun into yarn, which can be comparable to cashmere.
Additionally, it can be blended with other animal hair fibres and nylon to produce knitwear.
For the creation of premium thick fabrics, baby yak hairs are gathered.
Adult yak hair is utilised in the felt industry, whereas yak calf hair contributes to the textile industry.
German fashion brand ‘Edelziege’ blends fine yak hair with cashmere to fashion shawls and scarves.
Notably, fashion brands like Dunhill, Eileen Fisher, and Vince utilize blended yak hair and merino wool to manufacture high-quality suits.

Tasar Silk

Entomological information

Tasar silk moth are of two types – Tropical Tasar is the one which lives in the humid regions and Temperate Tasar that inhabits in the higher altitudes.
The scientific name of tropical Tasar is Antheraea mylitta and the species considered under oak Tasar are Antheraea pernyi, Antheraea proylei, Antheraea frithi, and Antheraea yamamai .
The entire life cycle of a Tasar silkworm, from egg to adult, takes around 45 to 60 days, depending on environmental conditions and other factors.
Having a deep bond with India’s opulent ancient fabric traditions, Tasar is recognized as the exclusive domain of the koshti community, originating from the Bhandara district of Maharashtra.
Consequently, it also upholds its alternative Sanskrit designation – Kosa Silk.

Habitat and fibre production

Tasar silk is primarily characterized by a univoltine life cycle, although bivoltine and trivoltine variations can also be observed.
Tropical Tasar is typically discovered in the tropical regions of Indian states like Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, Jharkhand, Orissa, Maharashtra, Chhattisgarh, and Andhra Pradesh.
On the other hand, temperate Tasar, also known as Oak Tasar, is commercially cultivated in Indian states, primarily in Manipur, Himachal Pradesh, Jammu and Kashmir, and Uttaranchal. Tasar silk accounts for 5% of the silk production in India.
The Indian market witnesses an approximate demand of 600 tonnes for Tasar silk. While half of this demand is met domestically, the remaining 300-400 tonnes are imported from China and Korea,2013[.
The Indian market witnesses an approximate demand of 600 tonnes for Tasar silk. Half of this demand is met domestically, while the remaining 30-400 tonnes are sourced through imports from China and Korea.

Table 1. Physical properties of Tasar silk fibres

Properties

Univoltine

Length

12000-14000mm

Fineness

11-13 denier

Bivoltine

Trivoltine

7500-8500mm

4500-6000mm

8-10 denier

6-7 denier

Table 2. Amino acid composition of muga silk fibres

Tasar filament

Breaking load (gf)

Outer

24.2

Middle

20.7

Inner

20.2

Tenacity (gf/den)

Elongation at break (%)

2.2

19.5

2.1

17.2

2.4

16.7

Table 3. Amino acid composition of Tasar silk fibres

Amino acid composition (mol %)

Amino acid

Tasar Silk

Aspartic acid

6.12

Glutamic acid

1.27

Serine

9.87

Glycine

27.65

Histidine

0.78

Arginine

4.99

Threonine

0.26

Alanine

34.12

Proline

2.21

Tyrosine

6.82

Valine

1.72

Methionine

0.28

Cystine

0.15

Isoleucine

0.61

Leucine

0.78

Phenylalanine

0.34

Tryptophan

1.26

Lysine

0.17

Features

Tasar silk is celebrated for its natural, raw texture and subtle sheen that imparts a distinct elegance to the fabric.
Tasar silk is highly breathable, offering comfort in diverse climatic conditions. Its breathable nature makes it suitable for different seasons.
, Tasar silk is known for its strength and durability, and it stands the test of time, ensuring the longevity of garments crafted from this material.
Despite its raw texture, Tasar silk is known for its softness, providing a comfortable feel when worn.
Tasar silk is often associated with skilled craftsmanship, as artisans employ traditional techniques to create intricate designs and patterns on the fabric.
In the reeling of Oak Tasar, usually 8-10 deflossed cocoons are taken and reeled together into a twisted thread of 40-50 denier.
They consume leaves other than mulberry, and it’s intriguing to observe that the colour of the silk produced by these worms is influenced by both the type of leaves they consume and the climatic conditions of the region where they are raised.
As a result, Tasar silk is exclusively crafted in a variety of natural tones, ranging from cream and off-white to honey brown, encompassing various shades of brown.

Typical uses

Tasar silk’s distinctive copper-brown hue, strength, and lustre contribute significantly to its commercial significance, particularly in exports.
Tasar is commonly combined with premium yarns such as wool, making it the favoured choice among many knitters for its ability to produce fabrics with a truly unique and luxurious texture.
In addition to yarn combinations, weavers have ventured into innovative weaving techniques for Tasar.
Traditional fabric weaves like twill, herringbone, satin, and diamond patterns are now being incorporated into the weaving of sarees, adding a touch of diversity to the artistic expression of this fabric.
Kantha embroidery in Bengal relies on Tasar as its foundation, chosen primarily for its affordability in comparison to mulberry silk.

Nutria Fibre

Zoological information

The scientific name of nutria rat is Myocastor coypus.
It is also known as nutria, and belongs to the family Myocastoridae.
It is a mammal that feeds on various vegetation, including aquatic plants, roots, stems, and leaves.
Its average life expectancy is up to 10 years.
Nutria rats are large, semi-aquatic rodents native to South America.

Habitat and Fibre production

Residing in burrows or nests, nutria, also known as coypu, are always close to water.
Nutria inhabit various environments, including farm ponds and other freshwater reservoirs like drainage canals, rivers, bayous, freshwater and brackish marshes, as well as swamps in these regions.
Originally native to southern South America, nutria have undergone domestication for their fur and have been relocated globally.
Following escapes from fur farms, they have successfully established sizable wild populations in various regions, including Canada and over a dozen U.S. states.
Nutria, also known as coypu, have diverse dietary preferences, with a particular fondness for aquatic plants and roots.
Additionally, they indulge in small creatures like snails or mussels.

Features

Nutria fur has a distinctive appearance, with a lustrous and coarse outer layer and a dense, insulating underlayer.
The outer coat of the nutria, whether yellow or brown, appears rough and unattractive, concealing a luxurious undercoat known as nutria fur, highly sought after for its use in clothing.
The outer guard hairs of the fur have a coarse texture that helps repel water, making it suitable for use in damp or rainy conditions.
Nutria fur is soft to the touch, providing a luxurious feel.
Despite its softness, the fur is also durable, making it suitable for various products requiring both comfort and longevity.
Nutria fur is relatively lightweight compared to some other fur types

Typical uses

Nutria fur is commonly used to produce fur garments, such as coats, hats, and accessories.
Its moderate weight, significantly lighter than a beaver’s, makes it suitable for linings.
Nutria rat hair fibres can be incorporated into crafts and textiles, adding a unique texture and appearance to items such as blankets, pillows, or rugs.
Anglers may use nutria rat hair for tying fishing flies. The hair’s natural properties make it suitable for mimicking the appearance of certain insects, making it attractive to fish.
The coarse and resilient nature of nutria rat hair makes it suitable for use in brushes and brooms.

Muskrat

Zoological information and Habitat

Muskrats (Ondatra zibethicus) are semi-aquatic rodents native to North America and located in Europe, Russia, and China.
They belong to the family Cricetidae.
These are known to be aquatic rodents found in marshes, ponds, and freshwater lakes, possess a dual-layered fur coat.
An adult can typically expect to live for 3 to 4 years, with a potential lifespan of around ten years.

Features

The soft, dense underfur provides insulation, ensuring warmth during swims in chilly waters.
While the outer guard hairs, resistant to water, prevent the underfur from getting wet.
The muskrat fur has natural oils that make it water-resistant.
It has various applications, such as being coloured to imitate mink fibres or subjected to plucking and shearing to emulate beaver fibres.
These durable fibres contribute to the longevity of fur garments made from them.
Generally, the hue is dark brown on the back, transitioning to golden brown and silver on the flanks.
The Jersey, or eastern, muskrat displays a darker shade, approaching almost black, making it the pricier option.
With proper care, the eastern muskrat is durable, although all muskrat fur maintains its longevity.

Typical uses

Historically, indigenous people and early settlers used muskrat fur for clothing, blankets, and other practical items.
The fur served as protection against harsh weather conditions.
Residents of chilly regions often appreciate garments, such as hats, crafted from muskrat fur due to the insulating combination of underfur and guard hair, ensuring exceptional warmth in cold weather.
The soft and durable nature of muskrat fur makes it suitable for decorative elements on various items, including clothing and home furnishings.
Muskrat fur produced accessories like fur-trimmed items, such as collars, cuffs, and hoods on garments made from other materials.
Muskrat fur is often used to make fur garments such as coats, jackets, hats, and gloves.

Musk Ox Hair/Qivuit

Zoological information

The Musk Ox (Ovibos moschatus) is a mammal native to the Arctic region.
It is a member of the Bovidae family.
As a hollow-horned ruminant, it falls into the category of herbivorous mammals with a stomach featuring four compartments for fermenting plant-based food before digestion.
Contrary to its name, the Musk Ox is neither an ox nor does it contain any musk. Scientists believe that its closest relative is the goat.
Musk ox hair and its derived products are commonly marketed under the name ‘Qivuit,’ a term coined by the Eskimo people.
It is reputed to possess the largest and thickest hair among all mammalian species on Earth.
Among the Eskimo people, it is also known as ‘Omingmark’ due to its resemblance to the bison.

Habitat and fibre production

The musk ox is predominantly found in the Canadian Arctic, Greenland, Sweden, Siberia, Norway, and Alaska.
It possesses a dual-layered coat consisting of coarse, dense outer guard hair measuring approximately 600mm in length, displaying a dark brown colour.
The finer undercoat, known as qiviut, is brown-grey, has a fineness of about 13-17 µm, and is shorter in length, ranging from 40-80mm.
Qivuit comes from the secondary follicles found on the skin of musk oxen.
The unprocessed musk-ox hair consists of approximately 8% fat and may contribute to the overall yield in the refined material.
The fine, downy hair is naturally shed each spring, and it can be easily combed directly from the animal or plucked to gather the fibres.
The yearly production amounts to 4-5 tons, with a per-animal yield averaging around 0.9 kg.

Features

The fibres are smooth and have no crimp.
The colour of the scoured and de-haired hair is light brown to chocolate brown.
This fibre is eight times warmer than wool.
It is softer and more valuable than cashmere.
Qivuit does not shrink in hot water, thus can be hand-washed[1].
The affinity of these fibres to the acidic/basic dyes is equal to that of any wool.
Due to its high fineness, the fibre is more susceptible to chemicals, alkalis, and acids when compared to wool.

Typical uses

Alaskan Eskimo women hand-knit stoles, sweaters, caps, shawls, and tunics from this special fibre.
For a well-built man, around 115 kg of qiviut fibres are required to make a sweater.
In Alaska, the company known as Musk Ox Producers’ Co-Op helps to develop 100% qiviut fibre products and qiviut/silk (80/20 blend) such as scarves, stoles, baby caps and headband smockerings (Nachaq) by traditional spinning and knitting methods in the trade name ‘Oomingmak’.

Muga Silk

Entomological information

Muga silk, scientifically known as Antheraea assamensis, is a variety of wild silk commonly referred to as Vanya silk.
This silk type is a part of the Antheraea genus, which is the world’s largest genera and is the member of the Saturniidae family
It undergoes a holometabolous transformation, progressing from the egg to the adult stage during its metamorphosis.
The Muga silk moth typically has a lifespan of 5-7 days.
Remarkably, it is the sole silkworm species capable of producing the renowned golden yellow silk celebrated for its distinctive colour and texture.

Habitat and fibre production

The Muga silkworm(Antheraea assamensis) is found in the Brahmaputra valley in Assam and in the East, West, and South Garo hills of Meghalaya.
Additionally, it can be observed in the Mokokchung, Tuensung, Kohima, and Wokha districts of Nagaland, Lohit and Dibang valleys, Chanlang and Papumpare districts of Arunachal Pradesh, Tameng-long district of Manipur, and Coochbehar district of West Bengal.
It is also found in Northern Myanmar and in the Kumaon and Kangra valleys in the western Himalayan hills.
Additionally, it is present in Sikkim, Himachal Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Gujarat, Pondicherry, Bangladesh, Indonesia, and Sri Lanka.
The North-Eastern states of India dominate the muga silk production, accounting for 99.86% of the total output. While a minor share of muga silk is also produced in Coochbehar, West Bengal, Assam stands as the country’s leading muga silk producer.
The muga plantations in these North-Eastern states cover approximately 5362.11 hectares, with Assam contributing 80% of this area.
The larva consumes the foliage of fragrant plants such as the Som tree (Machilus bombycina) or Soalu (Litsaea polyantha), as well as secondary plants like mejenkari (Magnolia spenocarpa) and dighalati (Litsaea salcifolia).
Silkworms raised on the Mejakari plant produce high-quality muga silk yarn and fabric, which adorned the attire of Ahom kings centuries ago, between 1200 and 1800 BC[2].
To obtain 1 kg of Muga silk yarn, it necessitates 5000 high-quality Muga and the cultivation of 5000 Muga silkworms, requiring 104 kg of specific leaves.
In the 2014-2015 period, India generated 158 tons of Muga silk, with Assam alone contributing 136 tons to the total production.

Table 1. Physical and Mechanical properties and chemical composition of muga silk fibres.

Physical and Mechanical Properties of Muga silk

Parameter

Value

Length (mm)

2750 – 4500

Fineness (den)

5-6

Tenacity (g/d)

2.84

Elongation (%)

28.8

Shrinkage (%)

7.7

Moisture regain (%)

10.2

Table 2. Amino acid composition of muga silk fibres

Amino acid composition (mol %)

Amino acid

Muga Silk

Aspartic acid

4.97

Glutamic acid

1.36

Serine

9.11

Glycine

28.41

Histidine

0.72

Arginine

4.72

Threonine

0.21

Alanine

34.72

Proline

2.18

Tyrosine

5.12

Valine

1.5

Methionine

0.32

Cystine

0.12

Isoleucine

0.51

Leucine

0.71

Phenylalanine

0.28

Tryptophan

2.18

Lysine

0.24

Features

The radiant sheen of silk arises from the triangular-prism-like cross-sectional structure of the silk filament, enabling the silk fabric to refract incoming light at various angles.
Muga silk boasts a remarkable quality as it has the ability to absorb 85.08% of harmful UV rays from the sun, which can potentially prevent skin cancer.
The durability of Muga silk fibres is noteworthy, often surpassing the lifespan of the wearer.
It gives out a natural golden lustre that enhances over time.
This fabric is compatible with a variety of dyes, including acid, metal-complex, and reactive dyes.
Silk, in general, exhibits resistance to most mineral acids, showcasing resilience and a capacity to absorb moisture.
Slight variations in colour may be observed based on the production time, with Jethuwa (May/June) and Katia (Oct/Nov) being the two main commercial crops.
Notably, the colour derived from Katia cocoons tends to be deeper than that of Jethuwa cocoons.
It is renowned as the most valuable, cozy, sophisticated, and optimal material for any season, and it is highly regarded.

Typical uses

Various forms of hand embroidery, woven patterns, and appliqué techniques are applied to Muga silk in Assam.
This exquisite fabric is primarily utilised for crafting ceremonial dresses and wedding costumes.
Additionally, it is employed in creating upscale furnishing materials tailored for elite households.
Muga silk finds its application in the production of mekhela, riha, chaddar, blouse, saree, gamucha, kurti, tie, and high-fashion garments, including traditional folk costumes.
Furthermore, the fabric is used to fabricate upholstery items such as window treatments (when blended with other fibres) and wall coverings.
Muga silk also serves a functional purpose in making UV radiation-resistant umbrellas.
Beyond fashion and home decor, the commercial and industrial uses of Muga silk extend to applications like bicycle tires, parachutes, comforter filling, and the production of artillery gunpowder bags.

Horse hair fibre

Zoological Information

The horse (Equus Caballus) has been employed for manual labour, transportation, and fibre production since ancient times.
Horses typically have a lifespan of approximately 20-30 years.
These creatures, believed to have been companions to humans for over 5500 years, encompass various breeds like the Arabian horse, Morgan horse, and pony.
High-quality horse hair continues to be available in the market in various forms for diverse purposes.

Habitat and fibre production

Horses are versatile animals and can adapt to a variety of habitats that encompass environments such as pastures, paddocks, or ranches, providing ample space for grazing, movement, and shelter..
Horse hair is obtained from the manes and tails of horses, and it can be extracted by pulling it evenly and directly away from the neck, typically from above the withers.
In the present day, Argentina, Canada, Mongolia, China, and Australia stand out as the primary horsehair fibre exporters, catering primarily to a specialized niche in the textile market.

Table 1. Physical and Mechanical properties and chemical composition of Horse hair fibres

Physical and Mechanical composition

Parameter

Value

Mane hair – Length ( mm)

250-450

Mane hair – Fineness ( µm)

50-200

Tail hair – Fineness ( µm)

600-800

Tail hair – Fineness ( µm)

80-400

Breaking extension (%)

43-52

Initial Breaking Modulus (GPa)

2.6 – 4.9

Chemical Composition

Constituents

Value(in %)

Fat Content

2.4

Moisture Content – Greasy hair

10.5

Moisture Content – Scoured hair

16.8

Features

The tail-derived hair fibres are rough, robust, shiny, and elastic.
Typically, they possess a hollow core, resulting in lower density.
It is usually smooth, stiff, well-ventilated, washable and resists wear and tear
In contrast, the mane-produced hair is the most delicate.
Horse tail hair can be categorized based on colours such as black, white, grey, brown, and mixed.
These fibres are durable, anti-allergic and possess a stiff character.
Mongolian horse tail hair was found to possess a medulla and exhibited an average fibre diameter of 180 µm, showing a gradual increase in diameter from the tip (130 µm) to the root (230 µm).

Typical uses

Clothing crafted from tail hair lining fabric exhibits increased stiffness, aesthetic appeal, durability, and resilience. .
The lengthiest horse hairs find application in fabric production, while those of medium length are utilized in crafting bristles for a variety of brushes, including those used in painting, industry, and household chores.
The shortest horse hair fibres, when curled, serve as filling for furniture and mattresses. Horsehair of superior quality is employed as strings for violin bows.
These fibres were also employed to produce fishing lines, nets, garment inner linings and handbags.
The horse hair fabrics represented one of the traditional coverings for fine furniture, widely used by 18th century masters like Chippendale and Hepplewhite.
It was also used to make to grade sofa and car seat covers, superior handbags, and all types of cases and bags.
By the end of the 19th century, horse hair was used to make parlour sofas.
Horse hair-cotton blend fabric commonly served as an interlining or stiffening material in the construction of tailored garments and millinery. This particular fabric found its application in crafting shirts worn by religious penitents.

Guanaco Fibre

Zoological Information

Lama guanicoe is commonly known as Guanaco.
It belongs to the family Camelidae.
Guanacos are artiodactyls of medium to large size, characterised by long necks and feet with two toes.
The lifespan of guanacos is 20-25 years.
In pre-Columbian cultures, guanacos were considered a source of meat and fibre.

Habitat and fibre production

Guanacos are semi-captive animals from the South America.
In the early 1530s, around 30-35 million guanacos were recorded residing on the South American continent.
Following that time frame, there was a significant decline in the guanaco population due to a gradual rise in hunting for both their meat and fleece.
The guanaco was included in the CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Flora and Fauna). Consequently, following this designation, guanaco fibre was acquired by capturing them passively during the shearing season and subsequently releasing them.
These wild animals live in dry, semi-dry, mountainous regions of the South American continent, such as Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador, Colombia, Chile, and Argentina.
The annual production of guanaco hair fibres is around 1.5-2 tons and the yield per animal is up to 0.7-1 kg.
It has two layers of coat known as guard hair and inner coat.
The guard hairs are coarser and thick, and the inner hair fibres are fine and soft.

Table 1. Physical properties and chemical composition of guanaco hair fibres

Physical properties

Parameter

Value

Length of fibre(mm)

30-60

Diameter of fibre (µm)

14-16

Chemical composition

Constituents

Keratin

Fibre

Fat

Suint, fat

Table 2: Amino Acid composition of guanaco hair fibres[2].

Amino Acid

Composition (mol%)

Cysteic acid

0.5

Aspartic Acid

7.2

Threonine

6.5

Serine

11.1

Glutamic Acid

13.7

Proline

7.9

Glycine

8.1

Alanine

5.5

Cystine

6.0

Valine

5.8

Methionine

0.5

Isoleucine

3.0

Leucine

7.2

Tyrosine

2.9

Phenylalanine

3.1

Lysine

2.5

Histidine

0.8

Arginine

7.7

Features

The physical structure of the guanaco hair fibres makes it look soft and lustrous giving it a high visual appeal.
Its colour varies slightly, spanning from light brown to dark cinnamon and obtaining fibres of a faint grey to white from the neck to the stomach area.
The fleece is incredibly soft and smooth, containing 10-20% beard hairs and 50% medullated fibres, which means they have a central hollow or pithy core.
It has fewer scales than sheep’s wool.
It is much softer, less scratchy, and easy to handle.
It is three times warmer than wool and is finer than cashmere.
It does not shrink during washing or processing.
After the undercoat is spun, the high-quality fibre surpasses alpaca and ranks just below pure vicuna fibre in terms of quality.

Typical uses

Exquisite textiles crafted from the supple fibres of guanaco are provided to exclusive tailoring firms, where they are transformed into suits with prices reaching as high as US$10,000.
While not as commonly employed in knitwear, a blend of 20% guanaco hair with merino wool is utilized to craft stylish sweaters and other knitted attire.
Fine-count worsted yarns in a variety of blends with merino and cashmere are imported to different businesses in London, Milan, and Tokyo.
Woollen-spun guanaco yarns find application in crafting suiting and overcoating fabrics tailored for high-end fashion brands.
100% guanaco is exclusively used for the making of accessories.
Dormeuli’s exquisite Guanashina fabric is renowned as one of the world’s most luxurious materials. This fabric is crafted by combining three rare and precious natural animal —Kid Pashmina, Guanaco, and Baby Cashmere—to achieve a perfect balance of opulence, comfort, and ease of care, resulting in a high-end aesthetic.

Eiderdown Fibre

Zoological Information

Eiderdown ducks are particularly known as the common eider (Somateria mollissima).
It belongs to the family Anatidae.
These birds are known to inhabit coastal areas in the Northern Hemisphere.
With a lifespan of up to 20 years, it boasts one of the longest life expectancies among sea ducks.
Eiderdown fibres are the world’s most expensive, highly insulating fibres.

Habitat and fibre production

Eiderdown is the warm and soft down obtained from the eider duck.
These ducks are typically located in Arctic and subarctic regions, where they breed in the cold northern areas, capitalizing on ample food resources and suitable nesting sites.
Constructing nests plucking their own down feathers from their breasts and lining them with plant material, these ducks often place them in sheltered spots like among rocks or in ground depressions, safeguarding the eggs and ducklings from potential predators.
Islands frequently serve the eider colonies, providing isolation and protection for nesting ducks and creating a safer environment for raising ducklings away from predators on the mainland.
In Iceland, where these birds are under strict protection, it is possible to harvest one pound of down from approximately 35–40 nests without causing any disruption to the breeding cycle.
The farmers in Iceland are involved in a 10000-year-old annual harvest of the downs of these common eiders.
Iceland is one of the largest producers of eiderdown fibres.
Each bird nest produces about 15-17 grams of eiderdown per year, or about 0.5-0.6 ounces.

Features

Eiderdown is known for its excellent insulation properties, providing warmth without excessive weight. The down clusters trap and retain air, creating a layer of insulation that helps regulate body temperature.
The fibres of eiderdown are lightweight which makes eiderdown products comfortable without being overly heavy.
Eiderdown fibres are exceptionally soft and fine, creating a luxurious and plush texture.
Eiderdown has a high capacity for shape retention, which allows it to maintain its fluffy and voluminous appearance, providing a fuller and more inviting bedding product.
Eiderdown is breathable, allowing air to circulate through the material.
While eiderdown is delicate and requires proper care, its natural durability allows it to maintain its shape and insulation properties over time when handled with care.

Typical uses

Eiderdown serves as a warm filling for jackets, pillows, quilts, and sleeping bags, providing warmth and comfort.

Bagasse (Sugarcane) fibre

Botanical Information

Agricultural conditions

Bagasse

Physical & Mechanical properties of bagasse

Chemical composition

Typical uses

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Yak Hair fibre

Zoological information

Habitat and fibre production

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Tasar Silk

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Nutria Fibre

Zoological information

Habitat and Fibre production

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Muskrat

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Musk Ox Hair/Qivuit

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Muga Silk

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Horse hair fibre

Zoological Information

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Physical and Mechanical composition

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Guanaco Fibre

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Eiderdown Fibre

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