Tasar Silk
Entomological information
- Tasar silk moth are of two types – Tropical Tasar is the one which lives in the humid regions and Temperate Tasar that inhabits in the higher altitudes.
- The scientific name of tropical Tasar is Antheraea mylitta and the species considered under oak Tasar are Antheraea pernyi, Antheraea proylei, Antheraea frithi, and Antheraea yamamai .
- The entire life cycle of a Tasar silkworm, from egg to adult, takes around 45 to 60 days, depending on environmental conditions and other factors.
- Having a deep bond with India’s opulent ancient fabric traditions, Tasar is recognized as the exclusive domain of the koshti community, originating from the Bhandara district of Maharashtra.
- Consequently, it also upholds its alternative Sanskrit designation – Kosa Silk.
Habitat and fibre production
- Tasar silk is primarily characterized by a univoltine life cycle, although bivoltine and trivoltine variations can also be observed.
- Tropical Tasar is typically discovered in the tropical regions of Indian states like Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, Jharkhand, Orissa, Maharashtra, Chhattisgarh, and Andhra Pradesh.
- On the other hand, temperate Tasar, also known as Oak Tasar, is commercially cultivated in Indian states, primarily in Manipur, Himachal Pradesh, Jammu and Kashmir, and Uttaranchal. Tasar silk accounts for 5% of the silk production in India.
- The Indian market witnesses an approximate demand of 600 tonnes for Tasar silk. While half of this demand is met domestically, the remaining 300-400 tonnes are imported from China and Korea,2013[.
- The Indian market witnesses an approximate demand of 600 tonnes for Tasar silk. Half of this demand is met domestically, while the remaining 30-400 tonnes are sourced through imports from China and Korea.
Table 1. Physical properties of Tasar silk fibres
Properties
Univoltine
Length
12000-14000mm
Fineness
11-13 denier
Bivoltine
Trivoltine
7500-8500mm
4500-6000mm
8-10 denier
6-7 denier
Table 2. Amino acid composition of muga silk fibres
Tasar filament
Breaking load (gf)
Outer
24.2
Middle
20.7
Inner
20.2
Tenacity (gf/den)
Elongation at break (%)
2.2
19.5
2.1
17.2
2.4
16.7
Table 3. Amino acid composition of Tasar silk fibres
Amino acid composition (mol %)
Amino acid
Tasar Silk
Aspartic acid
6.12
Glutamic acid
1.27
Serine
9.87
Glycine
27.65
Histidine
0.78
Arginine
4.99
Threonine
0.26
Alanine
34.12
Proline
2.21
Tyrosine
6.82
Valine
1.72
Methionine
0.28
Cystine
0.15
Isoleucine
0.61
Leucine
0.78
Phenylalanine
0.34
Tryptophan
1.26
Lysine
0.17
Features
- Tasar silk is celebrated for its natural, raw texture and subtle sheen that imparts a distinct elegance to the fabric.
- Tasar silk is highly breathable, offering comfort in diverse climatic conditions. Its breathable nature makes it suitable for different seasons.
- , Tasar silk is known for its strength and durability, and it stands the test of time, ensuring the longevity of garments crafted from this material.
- Despite its raw texture, Tasar silk is known for its softness, providing a comfortable feel when worn.
- Tasar silk is often associated with skilled craftsmanship, as artisans employ traditional techniques to create intricate designs and patterns on the fabric.
- In the reeling of Oak Tasar, usually 8-10 deflossed cocoons are taken and reeled together into a twisted thread of 40-50 denier.
- They consume leaves other than mulberry, and it’s intriguing to observe that the colour of the silk produced by these worms is influenced by both the type of leaves they consume and the climatic conditions of the region where they are raised.
- As a result, Tasar silk is exclusively crafted in a variety of natural tones, ranging from cream and off-white to honey brown, encompassing various shades of brown.
Typical uses
- Tasar silk’s distinctive copper-brown hue, strength, and lustre contribute significantly to its commercial significance, particularly in exports.
- Tasar is commonly combined with premium yarns such as wool, making it the favoured choice among many knitters for its ability to produce fabrics with a truly unique and luxurious texture.
- In addition to yarn combinations, weavers have ventured into innovative weaving techniques for Tasar.
- Traditional fabric weaves like twill, herringbone, satin, and diamond patterns are now being incorporated into the weaving of sarees, adding a touch of diversity to the artistic expression of this fabric.
- Kantha embroidery in Bengal relies on Tasar as its foundation, chosen primarily for its affordability in comparison to mulberry silk.
