Muga Silk
Entomological information
- Muga silk, scientifically known as Antheraea assamensis, is a variety of wild silk commonly referred to as Vanya silk.
- This silk type is a part of the Antheraea genus, which is the world’s largest genera and is the member of the Saturniidae family
- It undergoes a holometabolous transformation, progressing from the egg to the adult stage during its metamorphosis.
- The Muga silk moth typically has a lifespan of 5-7 days.
- Remarkably, it is the sole silkworm species capable of producing the renowned golden yellow silk celebrated for its distinctive colour and texture.
Habitat and fibre production
- The Muga silkworm(Antheraea assamensis) is found in the Brahmaputra valley in Assam and in the East, West, and South Garo hills of Meghalaya.
- Additionally, it can be observed in the Mokokchung, Tuensung, Kohima, and Wokha districts of Nagaland, Lohit and Dibang valleys, Chanlang and Papumpare districts of Arunachal Pradesh, Tameng-long district of Manipur, and Coochbehar district of West Bengal.
- It is also found in Northern Myanmar and in the Kumaon and Kangra valleys in the western Himalayan hills.
- Additionally, it is present in Sikkim, Himachal Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Gujarat, Pondicherry, Bangladesh, Indonesia, and Sri Lanka.
- The North-Eastern states of India dominate the muga silk production, accounting for 99.86% of the total output. While a minor share of muga silk is also produced in Coochbehar, West Bengal, Assam stands as the country’s leading muga silk producer.
- The muga plantations in these North-Eastern states cover approximately 5362.11 hectares, with Assam contributing 80% of this area.
- The larva consumes the foliage of fragrant plants such as the Som tree (Machilus bombycina) or Soalu (Litsaea polyantha), as well as secondary plants like mejenkari (Magnolia spenocarpa) and dighalati (Litsaea salcifolia).
- Silkworms raised on the Mejakari plant produce high-quality muga silk yarn and fabric, which adorned the attire of Ahom kings centuries ago, between 1200 and 1800 BC[2].
- To obtain 1 kg of Muga silk yarn, it necessitates 5000 high-quality Muga and the cultivation of 5000 Muga silkworms, requiring 104 kg of specific leaves.
- In the 2014-2015 period, India generated 158 tons of Muga silk, with Assam alone contributing 136 tons to the total production.
Table 1. Physical and Mechanical properties and chemical composition of muga silk fibres.
Physical and Mechanical Properties of Muga silk
Parameter
Value
Length (mm)
2750 – 4500
Fineness (den)
5-6
Tenacity (g/d)
2.84
Elongation (%)
28.8
Shrinkage (%)
7.7
Moisture regain (%)
10.2
Table 2. Amino acid composition of muga silk fibres
Amino acid composition (mol %)
Amino acid
Muga Silk
Aspartic acid
4.97
Glutamic acid
1.36
Serine
9.11
Glycine
28.41
Histidine
0.72
Arginine
4.72
Threonine
0.21
Alanine
34.72
Proline
2.18
Tyrosine
5.12
Valine
1.5
Methionine
0.32
Cystine
0.12
Isoleucine
0.51
Leucine
0.71
Phenylalanine
0.28
Tryptophan
2.18
Lysine
0.24
Features
- The radiant sheen of silk arises from the triangular-prism-like cross-sectional structure of the silk filament, enabling the silk fabric to refract incoming light at various angles.
- Muga silk boasts a remarkable quality as it has the ability to absorb 85.08% of harmful UV rays from the sun, which can potentially prevent skin cancer.
- The durability of Muga silk fibres is noteworthy, often surpassing the lifespan of the wearer.
- It gives out a natural golden lustre that enhances over time.
- This fabric is compatible with a variety of dyes, including acid, metal-complex, and reactive dyes.
- Silk, in general, exhibits resistance to most mineral acids, showcasing resilience and a capacity to absorb moisture.
- Slight variations in colour may be observed based on the production time, with Jethuwa (May/June) and Katia (Oct/Nov) being the two main commercial crops.
- Notably, the colour derived from Katia cocoons tends to be deeper than that of Jethuwa cocoons.
- It is renowned as the most valuable, cozy, sophisticated, and optimal material for any season, and it is highly regarded.
Typical uses
- Various forms of hand embroidery, woven patterns, and appliqué techniques are applied to Muga silk in Assam.
- This exquisite fabric is primarily utilised for crafting ceremonial dresses and wedding costumes.
- Additionally, it is employed in creating upscale furnishing materials tailored for elite households.
- Muga silk finds its application in the production of mekhela, riha, chaddar, blouse, saree, gamucha, kurti, tie, and high-fashion garments, including traditional folk costumes.
- Furthermore, the fabric is used to fabricate upholstery items such as window treatments (when blended with other fibres) and wall coverings.
- Muga silk also serves a functional purpose in making UV radiation-resistant umbrellas.
- Beyond fashion and home decor, the commercial and industrial uses of Muga silk extend to applications like bicycle tires, parachutes, comforter filling, and the production of artillery gunpowder bags.
