Non Conventional Fibres Association

Categories
Animal

Byssus Silk (Sea silk)

Byssus Silk (Sea silk)

Zoological information

  • The Pinna Nobilis, locally known as the noble pen shells, are mostly seen with the neighbouring clams as they live in colonies.
  • These endangered species are found deep under the sea or over the rocks on the shore near Sant’Antioco island in Sardinia, Italy, holding themselves to a rock. 
  • This helps them stay safe and avoid getting eaten by their predators. 
  • The noble pen shells have a unique quality that helps them adhere to the surface of the neighbouring shells. 
  • The organism within the shell set their foot onto a surface and spit out their saliva.
  • The fascinating part about this saliva is it is infused with special proteins and has a protective layer which turns it into a fibre-like structure.
  • Almost all the bivalves possess the ability to produce this fibre-like structure. Some of those species are mentioned as follows: Mytilus edulis, Mytilus trossulus, Mytilus galloprovincialis, Mytilus californianus, Pinna nobilis, Perna perna, Xenostrobus securis, Brachidontes solisianus

Byssus silk fibres

  • This structure, which appears as fibres, is fastened to the surface by an unusual waterproof glue that gets stiff when in contact with the seawater.
  • This glue has remarkable capability of adhering it to the surface as well as it possesses high strength and extensibility which enables them to withstand the repetitive force produced by waves when the clams are residing over the rocks over the sea.
  • At least 50-100 of these fibres are required by the pen shells for making a strong bond with the surface as a result these fibres collectively appear like the shells’ beard.
  • These fibres are skilfully collected without harming the noble pen shells by sea silk weavers like Chiara Vigo, Giuseppina Assuntina Pes, etc. 
  • With 100 dives, harvesters can collect a supply of 300gms of raw material from which only 30 gms proves to be usable material which turns into 21 meters of twisted thread.
  • After collecting, cleansing, and obtaining the usable matter, the obtained fibres are spun into yarn.

Typical uses

  • The fabric produced by sea silk is extremely fine and lightweight, with a golden hue and a shiny appearance. It has been highly valued for its beauty and softness.
  • Throughout history, civilisations such as the Phoenicians and the Romans have treasured sea silk for its luxurious qualities. 
  • However, due to the rarity of the noble pen shells and the labour-intensive production process, sea silk has always been considered a luxury material.

Table 1. List of Amino acid and its composition(mol%) present in bysuss silk

Amino Acid / Composition (mol %)

Aspartic acid

7.41

Threonine

3.99

Serine

6.63

Glutamic acid

4.24

Glycine

30.28

Alanine

11.37

Valine

4.15

Cystine

0.59

Methionine

0.89

Isoleucine

2.31

Leucine

2.85

Tyrosine

2.67

Phenylalanine

1.59

Lysine

3.94

Histidine

2.45

Arginine

3.71

Proline

5.65

Hydroxyproline

5.27

Categories
Animal

Alpaca Fibres

Alpaca Fibres

Zoological information, Habitat and Fibre production

  • Alpacas are domesticated animals and unlike Vicuña they are pretty friendly and peaceful. 
  • The Scientific name of alpaca is Vicuña pacos, and they belong to the family of camelids.
  • The average lifespan it holds is of 15-20 years.
  • They are native to the high Andes mountains, living at high altitudes and in temperate regions in Peru, Bolivia, and Chile.
  • Among these countries, Peru holds the majority of the world trade for producing alpaca hair. 
  • The amount of fibre obtained per animal is around 3-5 kg as it produces single coated fleece.
  • The annual production of alpaca hair fibres was of 4000-6500 tons during the year 2015.
  • In a year, alpaca can produce 4-5 times more hair than a cashmere or pashmina goat. 

Types of Alpaca fibres

  • Huacaya and Suri are the two breeds of Alpaca, and each produces different fibres, and the cross breeds of these two species are known as Huarizo and Misti. 
  • Approximately, there are 3 million alpacas worldwide with 94% living in South America. The worldwide population of the alpacas is made up of 93% huacaya alpaca & 7% suri alpaca.
  • The Huacaya breed produces a full coat that appears round, wooly, crimped, short, and dense. 
  • The Suri breed offers hair like long and straight dreadlocks, which is rare and carries excellent lustre. 
  • Therefore, they are sought after in many markets and are expensive. 
  • The huacaya fibres possess greater tensile strength and elongation at break property as compared to the suri fibres. 
  • Since the Huacaya fibres are naturally crimped, they are elastic, thus are preferred over suri fibres for knitting.

Table 1. Physical & mechanical properties and chemical composition of areca nut fibres

Physical & Mechanical properties [2,3]

Fibre Length

200-550 mm

Diameter

20-36 µm

Linear density

0.802 tex

Elongation at break

45%

Breaking strength

11.2 cN

Tenacity

14.23 cN/tex

Chemical composition [4]

Grease

1-3%

Dust/Vegetable matter

3-10%

Yield

87-94%

Suint

1%

Features of fibre

  • The alpaca hair is lighter in weight, provides better insulation, higher pilling resistance and is soft and durable.
  • It is naturally water repellent.
  • It is flame resistant and odour resistant.
  • It is finer than cashmere, warmer than goose down fibres, softer than cotton, smoother than silk, and more breathable than the other fibre-knitted fabrics.
  • The alpaca hair fleece comes in more than 22 natural colours and huacaya alone can provide with 8 different natural coloured hair fibres. 
  • It wicks moisture away and resists piling thus, making it suitable for wearing in all seasons.

Uses

  • It is preferably used to produce knitwear due to its outstanding natural properties.
  • Also, woven products include clothing accessories like shawls, stoles, rugs, etc.
  • It is blended with other fibres like wool, cotton, and silk to create a wider range of fabrics and other products. 
  • The garments such as sportswear, winterwear and other fashion garments are made out of alpaca hair are reigning over different American and European fashion markets.