Non Conventional Fibres Association

Pashmina hair

Zoological information

  • This breed of domesticated cashmere goats in India produces the finest cashmere fibres.
  • It falls under the scientific name Capra hircus aegagrus and belongs to the Bovidae family and Genus Capra.
  • These goats are known by various names based on their regional origins, such as Chanthangi in Leh and Ladakh (Jammu and Kashmir) and Chegu in Lahul and Spiti (Himachal Pradesh). 
  • The Ladakhi cashmere is GI certified and recognised as a Kashmiri product.
  • The amino acid composition of pashmina hair fibres is similar to fine wool  except cystine, tyrosine (12% more than wool), and proline (9% less than wool) .

Habitat and Fibre production

  • These herbivorous mammals are primarily found in the high-altitude regions of the
  • The life expectancy of these goats is around 10-12 years. 
  • The goats are sheared once a year during the spring season, with each shearing, yield/animal is between 0.5-0.45 kgs.
  • The annual production of Pashmina hair fibres is estimated to be around 40-50 tons .

Amino Acid / Composition (mol%)

Aspartic Acid

6.9

Threonine

6.8

Serine

12.0

Glutamic Acid

12.8

Proline

7.4

Glycine

9.5

Alanine

5.8

Cystine

5.6

Valine

5.2

Methionine

0.5

Isoleucine

2.8

Leucine

7.9

Tyrosine

4.5

Phenylalanine

2.7

Lysine

2.9

Histidine

0.9

Arginine

6.7

Table 1. Physical & mechanical properties and chemical composition of areca nut fibres

Physical & Mechanical Properties

Length

40-60 mm

Diameter

9-14 µm

Breaking load

2-6.2 g/tex

Elongation

20.5 – 42.9 %

Tenacity

5.3 – 14.21

Amino acid composition

Grease

15-30%

Dust/ Vegetable matter

5-20%

Yield

43-57%

Suint

4-7%

Table 2. Amino Acid composition of Pashmina hair fibres.

Features

  • It is in great demand in the European market due to its fineness, warmth, softness, dye affinity, and lightness and resistance to wrinkling.
  • Despite of these outstanding properties, it is a delicate fibre and can be easily damaged due to dry heat exposure, alkalis, and oxidising agents. 
  • Pashmina’s hair is identical to the fine wool.
  • Although it is 10 times weaker than wool, it is more hydrophilic due to the presence of more amino acids. 
  • Also, pashmina wool possesses a smoother and more lustrous surface than wool.
  • Thus, it is known as the prince of special hair fibres. 

Table 3.Performance properties of pashmina fabrics produced for hand spun and machine spun yarns[2]

Property / Hand spun yarn / Machine spun yarn

Breaking strength (kg)

4.964

4.975

Extension (%)

40.72

25.67

Alkali solubility (%)

38.00

46.00

Abrasion loss  (%)

3.75

5.73

Thermal insulation (tog)

2.00

1.95

Uses

  • Pashmina hair fibre is used to create a variety of woven products.
  • Shawls developed from this exquisite wool exhibit strength, sheen, and pliability.
  • It is popular for its quality, comfort, visual appeal, and rarity. 
  • Pashmina wool is used for making aesthetic clothing in Scotland, as well as shawls, rumals, stoles, etc. in India and neighbouring countries. 
  • It is also used for premium blended suiting in Italy and Switzerland.
  • The inner coat of hair is used for making garments and aesthetic merchandise, while the outer hair is utilised for crafting ropes, blankets felts, and other products.