Eri silk is obtained from the insect species; Samia Cynthia Ricini/ Atticus Ricini which belongs to the family of Saturniidae.
It is popularly known as ‘Peace Silk’, ‘Ahimsa Silk’, and ‘Poor Man’s Silk’.
It is the only completely domesticated silkworm besides Bombyx mori that feeds on the castor leaves.
‘Eri’ is derived from the Assamese word ‘Era’ or ‘Eranda’ meaning castor. Thus, it is known as eri silkworm.
It is a multivoltine, producing more than two breeds of offspring in a year.
Habitat and Fibre production
Eri culture is primarily cultured in the Northeastern States of India.
Eri culture is widely practised in Assam, Meghalaya, Manipur, and Nagaland, and around 98% of the national demand is fulfilled by the produce obtained from these
Since recently, it is practiced on a smaller scale in states like Orrisa, West Bengal, Bihar, and Andhra Pradesh.
The silk is spun as staple fibres are obtained from the open-ended cocoons.
In India, eri silk is known as ‘Endi’.
It is more expensive than other silks as it takes time to practice the skill and spin the cocoons.
The life cycle of an eri silkworm is roughly six weeks in summer and twelve weeks in winter.
In 2016-2017, out of total raw silk production (30348 metric tons), eri silk accounted for the 17.8% (5563.7 metric tons) of the natural raw silk fibre.
Table 1. Physical & mechanical properties and chemical composition of areca nut fibres
Physical and Mechanical properties
Length
40-60 mm
Diameter
19.4 µm
Tenacity
33.4 g/tex
Elongation
19.5%
Chemical composition
Fibroin
82-88%
Sericin
11-13%
Waxy matter
1.5-2.2%
Minerals, Ash, and other material
2-3%
Features of the fibre
Eri silk is extracted as a staple fibre having appropriate fineness, cross-sectional shape, and surface properties.
It provides a feel like cotton, luster like silk and warmth and bulkiness like wool and is softest of all the silk fibres.
It has excellent thermal regulation properties; thus, it provides warmth in winter and coolness in summer.
Eri silk is resistant to piling and has good elastic recovery.
It possesses higher elongation, and shrinkage properties.
It is moisture absorbent, solid and depicts good form which gives a typical texture.
It is finer than Muga and Tasar silk and is softer than Mulberry silk.
It is important to give proper twist to the yarn to maintain the dimensional stability of the garments and made ups.
Uses
It creates the finest quality blankets, sweaters, and suiting materials.
The durable chaddars or wrappers’ winter shawls are usually used as winter clothing in the colder regions.
Jackets, dress materials, baby dresses, bedspreads, etc., are also made using eri silk.
Also, finer yarns are used to weave the traditional sarees and dress materials.
It is also widely used to make home furnishing products such as bed covers, cushion covers, curtains, quilts, wall hangings, etc.
Eri silk shows good blending properties and thus is commonly blended with other natural silks, cotton, wool, jute, and synthetic fibres.
It is a preferred material of Buddhists and Vegans as producing Eri silk does not require killing the moth.